2005 Vosne Romanee Aux Reignots

Unfortunately, there is only a bit over a barrel of 2005 Vosne Romanee Aux Reignots from some of the domaine’s oldest vines, a wine with pungent, exotic, orchid-like florality, brown spices, black fruits, raw meat and wood smoke in the nose, a palate mingling bright black fruit essences and salty mineral notes with deep meatiness, and a long, savory, salty finish. There is not only a carnal dimension on exhibit that goes beyond Grivot’s other Vosne crus, but also a textural dimension and polish that are Grand Cru in class. Etienne Grivot aimed this year for gentle extraction (essentially without pigeage), then watchful preservation of the freshness, subtleties and refinement inherent in near-perfect raw material. He performed some very light chaptalization to extend the fermentations. Given the health and natural concentration of his vinous raw material, he felt no need to sulfur or rack the wines until shortly prior to bottling (without filtration), which was the stage at which I tasted. Importer: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400.