2006 Charmes Chambertin
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Opzioni di acquisto
Note di degustazione
Fruitcake again pops into mind when one smells Serafin's 2006 Charmes-Chambertin, featuring sweet dried berries, plums, candied citrus rind, brown spices, and roasted meat. Hints of vanilla and maple syrup suggest a harmonious contribution from barrel. This spreads a seamlessly-tannin, plush carpet of flavors across the palate, with uncommon depth as well as carnal intrigue. I can understand why Serafin compares it with the corresponding 1997, since he quickly adds that he thinks this is better. Indeed, I think the underlying structure and concentration here – unlike what proved true of most 1997s – counsel 3-4 years of cellaring before planning to enjoy over the subsequent half a dozen or more. Vineyard manicure and green harvesting – to hear Christian Serafin tell it – were keys to success in 2006, and he managed to achieve very ripe results. Fascinatingly, these include both wines that are quintessentially 2006, and some that seem destined to capture a combination of structure and energy reminiscent of 2005. Serafin, by the way, is a grower who explicitly recognizes the challenges in steering a course between concentration and elegance, rather than taking the latter for granted as part of his and his vines' birthright. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083
Punteggi della critica
Punteggio medio
Jancis Robinson MW
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
Altre recensioni e punteggi
Paleish. Light nose. Good energy and pzazz though not very pure. Sweet and liqueur-like – does Fourrier have Charmes? Chewy on the finish. Needs time. (JR)
Good medium red. Sexy dark cherry and mocha on the nose. Plump, silky and sweet, but with a slightly peppery, herbal quality that initially gave the wine a dry edge but blew off with air. Ultimately showed lovely roundness and breadth, with a perfumed flavor of fresh black cherry. Finishes sweet and impressively long, with ripe, broad tannins and lingering perfume. If you serve this wine anytime soon, be sure to give it a good aeration.
Good deep red. Somewhat reduced nose offers small wild berries, smoke and game. Silky-sweet and stylish yet less open today than the Cazetiers; this will require more time to integrate its acidity. A midweight grand cru with a youthfully medicinal quality on the slightly spiky finish. Less harmonious at present than the Cazetiers, but it's hard to imagine that this won't come through in the end.