2012 Chambolle Musigny Les Combottes

Bright full red. Aromas of black raspberry, cherry, licorice, menthol and bitter chocolate complicated by underbrush and truffle. Juicy, tight and firmly built, even a bit youthfully imploded, with dark berry flavors enlivened by a hint of pepper. Velvety rather than silky in texture. Finishes very ripe, with notes of mocha and woodsmoke and serious tannins. This wine from an early-ripening site doesn't have quite the grip or lift of the best 2011s at this address. According to Christophe Roumier, potential alcohol levels were about a degree lower across the board in 2011 than in 2012. "It was a very early growing season and harvest but the wines taste like they're from a cold year," he added. "And some of the lower vineyards did not ripen well."

(this and all subsequent wines were vinified with between 25% and 30% whole clusters): Bright red-ruby. Black cherry, violet, menthol and bitter chocolate on the very ripe nose. Dense and fat with fruit, offering superb richness and good framing acidity to the flavors of crushed black cherry, violet and minerals. Finishes very suave and long, with fully ripe tannins.