2005 Chateauneuf du Pape Telegramme

Deep red. Fresh red berry and cherry aromas are brightened by zesty minerality, with a subtle floral quality adding complexity. Deep cherry and blackcurrant flavors are sharpened by fresh acidity, which adds lift to the finish. This has put on weight since last year, and comes across as more serious and in need of time to unwind.

The 2005 Telegramme Chateauneuf du Pape is not as up-front and charming as one might suspect. Revealing more structure, tannin, and backwardness, it offers beefy black raspberry and cherry notes with some Provencal spiciness in the background. This attractive offering needs 1-2 more years to round into shape, and should drink nicely for a decade. The Brunier brothers would like me to include all of their wines under one entity called Vignobles Brunier, but that has caused confusion among subscribers trying to find the reviews for Vieux Telegraphe, Domaine La Roquette, and Domaine Les Pallieres. So, with apologies to the Bruniers, I am returning to the old format. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524

Bright red. Fresh raspberry and strawberry on the nose, with lively spice and mineral accents. Crisp, linear and pure, with bright red fruit flavors lifted by a suggestion of orange peel. Finishes spicy and clean, with subtle tannins and very good length.