2014 Chambolle Musigny Les Feusselottes

Medium-deep red-ruby. Animal fur reduction to the aromas of raspberry, smoked meat and roast coffee torrefaction, with a leavening floral note. Sweet and ripe in the mouth, verging on exotic; seems a bit chunky for Chambolle. Finishes with serious tannins and a slight edge of acidity.

The 2014 Chambolle Musigny les Feusselottes 1er Cru, from vines planted between 1920 and 1966, has a stony, slightly austere bouquet that demands some rigorous aeration before it opens up and deigns the imbiber with more fruit. The palate is crisp on the entry with fine tannin, crisp black cherry and blackberry notes augmented by a vein of crème de cassis, gentle and focused towards the finish without that peacock's tail of a more benevolent vintage. Drink over the next decade, possibly more.