2017 Chateauneuf du Pape

Kirsch, blackberry, ground pepper, and incense notes all dominate the bouquet of the medium to full-bodied 2017 Châteauneuf Du Pape Le Caillou. It offers beautiful purity of fruit, a rounded, mouthfilling texture, and a great finish. Drink it over the coming decade. The Vacheron family, Bruno Gaspard, and consultant Philippe Cambie continue to work magic at this modestly sized estate located on the eastern edge of Châteauneuf du Pape. They produce a bevy of cuvees, all of which are noteworthy, with their two flagship Châteauneuf du Papes, the Les Quartz and La Reserve, flirting with perfection in just about every vintage.

While the 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape Le Caillou is an excellent effort, I have to admit I hoped for more based on last year's tasting. Black olive and raspberry notes create an attractive mix of fruity and savory elements, while the palate is full-bodied but perhaps a bit open-knit and coarse, showing the effects of heat and drought on the tannins. I'd suggest drinking it over the near term.