2010 Petite Syrah Rattlesnake Ridge

In many ways, Turley’s 2010 Petite Syrah Rattlesnake Ridge is the most exotic and beguiling of these wines. Melted road tar, black olives, juniper berries and menthol all jump from the glass. A huge, full-bodied wine, the Rattlesnake Ridge boasts serious complexity and nuance. The tannins are also pretty fierce at this stage, so patience is a must. Still, there is no denying the 2010 is special. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2030. This is a thrilling set of wines from Larry Turley, Ehren Jordan and Tegan Passalacqua. Tasting this wide a range of 2010 and 2011 Zinfandels and Petite Syrahs is like taking a master class in California terroir. The house style favors an expression of Zinfandel and Petite Syrah built on aromatic intensity and elegance, which Jordan credits to gentle extractions. At times, the wines come across as quite Burgundian in the way they express richness but not excess heaviness. Over the last few years, the wines have become a little more laid-back and less overtly ripe, which is a net positive given that the starting point for all of these wines is fruit of exceptional quality. The Petite Syrahs in particular are noteworthy because they are among the few wines that find the elegance Petite Syrah is capable of, while avoiding the massive tannins that are so typical elsewhere. The 2010s are strong across the board, although Turley did not bottle a few of their wines from sites that got scorched by the heat spikes, which includes the Highway 101 and Zampatti. The 2011s are more variable, as befits a vintage that had much less favorable conditions overall. Tel. (707) 963-0940

(14.8% alcohol): Saturated ruby. Musky aromas of dark berries and meat. Fat, broad and sweet, with dark berry, black cherry and bitter chocolate flavors accented by pepper and herbs. Finishes very long but the huge, slightly drying tannins will require some patience. I much prefer the style of the Hayne petite sirah.