NV Louis Roederer Collection 243

This is the second release of Roederer’s re-incarnation of Brut Premier. Forget non-vintage, Collection is a numbered, multi-vintage release – meaning, as for Krug and several other wines – you know exactly which vintages are in your bottle. The 243 is based in the warm 2018 vintage, which represents almost 60% of the blend, bringing a round richness that is quite different to 242’s cooler, more mineral and linear style. This is complemented by reserve wines – most of which is a perpetual reserve kept in stainless steel to retain prevision, and a portion (10%) that is aged in oak. With wines back to 2012, this has layers of depth and complexity that are impressive for the price. It opens with a ripe nose of plum and ripe citrus – lemon tart with flaky all-butter pastry, yet a vibrant freshness. Structured with savoury depths and the fine mousse you’d expect from the makers of Cristal, this is serious Champagne that is drinking beautifully now – but will only benefit from additional time in bottle. With just 8g/l, the finish is dry, the vibrant acidity leaving you craving another glass.