2019 St Henri Shiraz

100% Shiraz . McLaren Vale, Barossa Valley, Padthaway, Wrattonbully, The Peninsulas. Multi-regional blend sourced from many vineyards of multiple ages. Destemmed into 10- and 20-tonne static stainless-steel vessels (Barossa); 3- to 8-tonne open fermenters ( Magill , McLaren Vale). Fermented to dryness in fermenter, prior to maturation in large seasoned oak vats (1,800+ litres), minimum 70 years old, for 12 months. Filtered. Deep crimson. Dark and spicy. Rich and lightly charry (rather than oaky). Savoury, the tannins holding the fruit in thrall. Much too young to even taste, let alone drink . The tannins create a dry, corseted impression . (JH)

A hit of cassis puree, cola, olive and cocoa bean, an unforced sweetness to the berry fruit character alongside cinammon spice, smooth silky tannins, bitter chocolate, olive paste, garrigue, eucaluputus, a ton of grip and lift, just a lovely wine. Tasted in Paris and Bordeaux within the same week, same pleasure both times. Peter Gago winemaker. No new oak for ageing.

Opaque ruby. An expansive, complex bouquet evokes ripe dark fruits, espresso, candied violet, vanilla and sandalwood, and an exotic spice nuance emerges slowly. Conveys a suave blend of depth and energy to sweet blueberry, kirsch and fruitcake flavors, supported by a core of juicy acidity. Shows outstanding clarity and spicy lift on the youthfully tannic finish, which strongly echoes the blue fruit and floral notes.