2004 Lanson Noble Cuvee Blanc de Blancs

The bright yellow 2004 Champagne Blanc De Blancs Noble opens to fruity and fresh aromas of quince, almond, honeycomb, and fresh flowers. Medium to full-bodied, it fills the palate and offers excellent intensity and precision, with generous ripe fruit and a touch of marmalade-like sweetness, but it retains purity without getting bogged down. The mousse is fluffy and pillowy, with a pretty style. Drink 2023-2040. Cellar master Hervé Dantan took over in 2013 and is the third generation in his family of winegrowers. In addition to working and studying in Champagne, Mr. Dantan also spent time in Burgundy and at Gloria Ferrer in Sonoma. Historically, the winery entirely blocked malolactic fermentation, but they’re no longer dogmatic about it, although they continue to strive for a crispy style. Since Hervé’s arrival, they have worked to create a vineyard team and are moving to becoming certified sustainable and using organic practices whenever possible. They work with 400 different partners in the vineyards. The vineyard La Clos de Lanson in Reims is the only urban clos in the region and is a single hectare planted to Chardonnay. It’s the only parcel that’s fermented in barrel, and the latest release is the 2007 vintage. The vintage bottlings are produced from Grand Cru and Premier Cru sites, with the prestige cuvées consisting entirely of Grand Cru. Structural developments include a barrel room built in 2015 and a new press house in Verzenay that opened last year. The press house is also the home of a new future clos currently of young vines facing the landmark windmill of the village. With this year’s releases, Dantan and the team are working to show more transparency in their labeling, beginning with the Black Label. Consumers will find that there is now a “Creation” number added to the label, with this year’s release called Creation 257, as it is the 257th release. For future releases, the numbers will move forward sequentially.

Clear glass bottle. Disgorged September 2021. All grand cru Chardonnay. This has mellowed a little since I tasted it a year ago so that it's now a well balanced, appetising drink with sufficient fruit to complement the brisk acidity with its streak of lime. This is a great time to enjoy this persistent wine with a fine pedigree. (JR)

'From selected Grand Cru vineyards' on the back label, but no mention of grand cru on the front label. No malo, hence the age. Not disgorged until September 2021. Lemon-fruited and extremely crisp. Definitely an aperitif style. (JR)