2012 Gevrey Chambertin Clos des Chezeaux

The 2012 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos des Chezeaux, which according to Burgundy writer Bill Nanson is the only producer of this 0.46-hectare monopole, has an intriguing bouquet that demands a little contemplation: subtle scents of undergrowth and cigar box are entwined with red and black fruit. The palate is ripe on the entry with a fine bead of acidity, seguing into a rounded and unassuming, strawberry-infused finish with hints of tobacco lingering on the aftertaste. Drink now-2022. Domaine Berthaut has been run by six generations of the namesake family. Vincent and Denis have been at the helm since 1975, farming 13 hectares within the ambit of Fixin. There is a lutte raisonee approach in the vineyard and the wines are fermented in concrete tanks, usually seeing a modest 20% new oak for 18 - 24 months before bottling. I used to buy Berthaut’s wines when I was first dipping my toes into Burgundy, not only because of quality, but because they were always good value. The 2012s, which were all drawn from barrel, might be described as a little rustic, but in a positive sense. While they are not powerful or even complex, they tend to be well-balanced and express their respective terroirs with the minimum of fuss. No known US importer.