2012 Chateauneuf du Pape

The 2012 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Réservé is at the start of its broad drinking window. Prominent kirsch liqueur, forest floor, strawberry compote, dried meat, rosemary, pressed violets and sage are only some of the many aromas and flavors that jump out of the glass. Refined to the core, the athletic 2012 packs a laser-like focus and flawlessly integrates the elevated alcohol. This is a remarkably uplifting Rayas with less obvious punch compared to riper years like 2009 or 2010, but the levels of intensity and finesse are jaw-dropping.

Presented in three components, as is Reynaud's custom. #1: High-pitched red berry and floral aromas show superb purity and focus. Racy, crisp and concentrated, offering intense raspberry and cherry flavors and a bracing mineral nuance. Finishes long and spicy, with a whiplash of zesty minerality and lingering red fruit. #2: Deeper and darker in profile, offering sweet black raspberry and cherry-cola aromas and flavors and a hint of licorice. Shows impressive power on the close, with dusty tannins coming on late. #3: Spicy, floral dark berry aromas, with an exotic Indian spice note in the background. Stains the palate with powerful blackberry and bitter cherry flavors that are complicated by notes of smoky minerals and lavender. Suave and seamless on the finish, which lingers with excellent tenacity and smooth, harmonious tannins.

Very lively and mineral – more lifted and less fat than the Fonsalette Blanc. Sweet, herbal and fine. Really exciting. Emmanuel Reynaud is very keen on 2012 for whites because the vintage has both body and freshness. (JR)