2020 Kalimna Bin 28

Aged 12 months in American oak (16% new). Black cherry, blackcurrant, a bit of spice upfront and fine, grainy tannins. Tight and bitter at present, seems less luscious and juicy than previous vintages have been. (RH)

The Barossa has the ability to convey a sense of place, dirt and air in the glass. The trick is to not get in the way—a cooper does not terroir make. Despite not being the dominant region in this blend (for specificity: McLaren Vale, Barossa Valley, Padthaway and Clare Valley), the Barossa makes a potent contribution. Here, in the 2020 Bin 28 Kalimna Shiraz, the concentrated, dry and warm vintage is on show and provides a splay of earthy, dense fruit, stretched over a framework of savory tannin. Despite Penfolds's reputation for big tannins/big oak, the fruit here overpowers both and streams out over the long finish. The heart of Barossa is here. Very good. Will get better.

A ripe, plush and generous expression of 2020 South Australian Shiraz made with fruit from McLaren Vale, Barossa, Padthaway and Clare Valley. Sweet fruit pastille, licorice and dried spice aromas are attractively intertwined with a good dose of sweet American oak. Compact and muscular, punchy and powerful flavours follow. The chewy tannins are currently tightly wound throughout an extended finish suggesting this vintage of Bin 28 needs a little time to flower.