2013 R. & L. Legras Presidence Vielles Vignes

100% Chouilly Chardonnay from their top plots. Sur lattes for four years. Dosage 5 g/l. Cooked-cream and toasted-nuts aroma. Folded like thick cream linen, with an almost marzipan richness, and would taste sweet were it not for a broad band of citrus-pith and hawthorn-blossom bitterness running through every fold. And then, on the end, wild peaches giving a zing of green. A bit of astringency in the bubbles providing balance to the creaminess. (TC)