2020 Powder House Vineyard Chardonnay

The 2020 Chardonnay Powder House is a good example of the natural struggle of the year. It shows good energy and focus, even if the aromatics are a touch diffused. There is some aggressiveness in the contours and yet enough balance to hold it all together. The Powder House is very clearly the product of a hugely challenging year and set of conditions.

Aubert's 2020 Chardonnay Powder House—from a Forestville vineyard planted in 2015 to a mix of Hyde Old Wente and Mount Eden selections—comes across as a bit more crisp, focused and linear than many of the other wines here. Melon, yellow plum and lime notes appear upon the nose, while the full-bodied palate is concentrated, fresh and zesty. It's an excellent wine, maybe a bit more suited for a food pairing (delicate white fish or poultry dishes) than the more bombastic offerings.

The 2020 Chardonnay Powder House rockets out with powerful notes of key lime pie, jasmine tea, and candied orange peel, plus notes of oyster shell, nutmeg, fresh ginger, and citron blossom. The full-bodied palate is viscous and opulent with layer upon layer of citrus and savory flavors, lifted by a refreshing backbone, finishing long with loads of mineral nuances. This vineyard, on Goldridge soils near downtown Forestville, was planted in 2013. There are basically 2 clones, Hyde and Mt Eden, on 420 A & 114 rootstocks, and the row direction is due north.