2014 Cristal

The 2014 Cristal is a dark horse, a wine built along linear lines rather than opulence, and from a year that generated very little enthusiasm at the time. A cold, wet summer and attacks from the Suzuki fly at harvest were among the challenges producers dealt with. And yet, the best wines turned out far better than initially expected. Cristal is a terrific example. It exudes energy and tension backed by strong saline accents that confer vibrancy. Stylistically, it reminds me of the 2004 in its build. The long, nuanced finish is a thing of beauty. In this tasting, the 2014 only suffers a bit because of some of the more overt vintages that surround it, but it’s a gorgeous Cristal. Dosage is 7 grams per liter. Disgorged: 2022

Tons of Amalfi lemon and chalky minerality here plus ripe pear and oyster shell. Quite generous and very expressive on the front- and mid-palates, but the finish is quite sleek and steely. As impressive as this is now it will grow considerably with further bottle age. A cuvee of 60% pinot noir and 40% chardonnay, of which a third was fermented in oak.

Sourced from 39 plots, the 2014 Champagne Cristal is 60% Pinot Noir and the remainder Chardonnay, with 32% aged in oak, and it has 7 grams per liter dosage. It is highly expressive of classic elegance and purity, revealing aromas of crushed rock, almond croissant, and perfume of citrus blossoms. The palate is hyper-refined in its mousse, with pinpoint bubbles, a subtly rounded mid-palate, an irresistible chalky texture, and energy throughout its long and floral finish. Everything about this feels perfectly tailored. Drink 2024-2044.