1996 Philipponnat Clos des Goisses L.V.

Philipponnat’s 1996 Clos des Goisses L.V., disgorged in March 2022 with the house’s customary dosage of 4.5 grams per liter, underwent vinification equally in stainless steel and large oak foudres (25 hectoliters). While among the leanest renditions of Clos des Goisses, it remains more generous and expansive than many other expressions of the 1996 vintage, shaped by its warm, south-facing site. The bouquet bursts from the glass with aromas evocative of peeled almonds and roasted cacao beans, mingling with notes of lemon confit, oyster juice and salted nuts. On the palate, it is medium-bodied, chiseled and vinous, driven by the electric acidity characteristic of the vintage and concluding with a saline and lemon-laced finish. While it doesn’t quite achieve the harmony of the 2008 Clos des Goisses—another relatively high-acid year—the wine remains compelling, though its aromatic range feels slightly out of sync with its linear palate. Charles Philipponnat notes that the harvest began on September 14th.

The 1996 Extra-Brut Clos des Goisses L.V. has reached a glorious peak of expression. Apricot, burnt sugar, spice, pastry, hazelnut and a whole range of reductive notes that have developed in bottle fill out the layers. In 1996, Clos des Goisses was still aged on cork (for both the original and L.V. releases. Over time, cork seems to given the 1996 an especially relaxed, resonant feel. Dosage is 4.5 grams per liter. Disgorged: March, 2021. (Originally published in May 2021)

Released 21 September 2021. Disgorged March 2021. A 50/50 blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Base wine fermented in foudre or concrete (no barrels). The last vintage in which the wine aged under cork – before they switched to crown cap in order to have better control over oxygen ingress. Potential alcohol at harvest was > 9% in Clos de Goisses, which was higher than in many other vineyards that year. LV stands for long vieillissement (long ageing).  1996 is more golden in colour and aroma compared with the 2012 Clos des Goisses just tasted, more yeasty but still seems quite youthful considering how long it has been on the lees (24 years!). Acidity is high, as you would expect from this vintage, but does not stick out and there's a delicious orange vibrancy as part of that acidity. Honeyed brioche, nougat and clementine flavours, a little bit woody. A hint of cocoa powder, becoming extremely complex with a touch of coffee and honeyed herbal notes. Deep, intense apricot flavour and citrus freshness at the core and on the long finish. A brilliant match with red mullet. (JH)