2020 Pagodes de Cos

The refinement and mouthfeel to this is so beautiful already, with polished, silky tannins. Medium-bodied and savory, with tobacco, berry and currant character. Nearly ready to drink. Drink or hold.

A vintage that marks 20 years since the arrival of Reybier, and it's an excellent example of the success of Cos under his ownership. Here you get a creamier quality to the fruit than some of the older vintages in the lineup, with blackberry pastille, raspberry puree, careful extraction, finessed tannins, black tea and liquorice. Still young but hovering on the brink of being ready to be opened and shared. Always worth noting with 2020 wines that this was also the Covid vintage so difficult in terms of manpower but the team had plenty of time to concentrate on their vineyards - made easier by the fact that each team member at Cos always has their own plot to work on. Harvest September 10 to 24, Dominique Arangoïts technical director, Eric Boissenot consultant, 20% new oak for ageing.

Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Darker-fruited and more savoury than the Marquis de Calon. Peppery/spicy oak. Lifted and very fresh on the palate, relatively light but balanced. Finely dry tannins, juicy finish. (JH)