2018 Bourgogne Passetoutgrains l'Exception

Since the Lafarge family's parcel of Passetoutgrain was planted the year that paterfamilias Michel Lafarge was born, they decided to produce a special cuvée, the 2018 Bourgogne Passetoutgrain Cuvée Anthologie, to celebrate Michel's 90th birthday. Taking only fruit of vines from the original planting and from the upper part of the parcel, the grapes were destemmed by hand, and they produced enough wine to fill one 300-liter barrel and one 600-liter foudre. Unwinding in the glass with complex aromas of sweet red berries, peonies and rich soil tones, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and and succulent, with lively acids, powdery structuring tannins and a long finish. Any of the ensuing large-format bottles will be well worth tracking down.

90-year-old vines on gravel and sandy soil that suits the Gamay/Pinot field blend – both varieties reach maturity at the same time. Normally Gamay would ripen earlier. ‘We are rediscovering the marvels of nature’, says Frédéric Lafarge as we embark on a discussion about the way plants communicate with each other. Bright, sweet, dark-red crunchy fruit. Mouth-watering and sappy and full of beans. So fresh and lively. Such pleasure. Just a touch of tannin for shape but you could drink this now. (JH)