2017 Chablis Vieilles Vignes

Bright, very clear gold. Lightly reductive on the nose – to the extent I personally like. This seems a tad older than three years, but there's nothing wrong with accelerated ageing if the result is pleasing! Not intense but very Chablis and appetising. I wouldn't hang on to it but it should please true Chablis lovers already. There is no wet wool and only a hint of water flowing over wet stones, but it certainly has more character than supermarket Chablis. Not as thrilling as the 2015 but certainly creditable. Lots of flavour and not much alcohol. Double tick! (JR)