2017 Pouilly Fuisse Vignes de la Cote

The 2017 Pouilly-Fuissé Vignes de la Côte has unwound a little since I last tasted it, unfurling in the glass with aromas of crisp orchard fruit, citrus oil and white flowers, mingled with hints of mint, nutmeg and fresh pastry. On the palate, it's deep, full-bodied and muscular, with considerable concentration and structuring extract, underpinned by bright acids. As I wrote last year, this is likely to number among the longest-lived of Duperray's wines this year, and it is worth a special effort to track down.