2018 Vosne Romanee Les Brulees

The 2018 Vosne-Romanée Aux Brûlées 1er Cru was the first vintage made using cool trucks overnight before sorting the following morning. It has a tightly wound bouquet of dark berry fruit, crushed rock and light floral notes. The palate is medium-bodied with chalky tannins, truffle-infused black fruit and a touch of dark plum and black pepper on the finish. A little surly at the moment, but it just needs time.

Cask sample. The wine had been racked. Pretty firm and at first unyielding with massive tannins. Then it opened out to be pretty rich. But the grip is very marked. Ambitious. (JR)

On the limestone of Prémeaux. 60% whole bunch. Four new barrels out of seven. Barrel sample. Deep cherry red. Sweeter red fruit on the nose compared with the Clos d’Eugénie though the cold temperature of the sample makes it less expressive (the cellar is very cold and I am glad to be sitting just outside it). On the palate, this has the depth and fruit sweetness of a riper vintage allied to the super-fine texture of light extraction. A hint of wood on the palate, beautifully balanced and elegant. (JH)