1995 Philipponnat Clos des Goisses L.V.

Disgorged in March 2020 with 4.5 grams per liter dosage, the 1995 Extra Brut Clos des Goisses L.V. is very serious, unwinding in the glass with notes of peach, pear, red plums, fresh pastry and warm bread, complemented by subtle suggestions of more exotic fruit. Full-bodied, multidimensional and vinous, it's muscular and concentrated, with a deep, layered and tightly coiled core, underpinned by racy acids and complemented by a pearly mousse.

This all-Pinot bottling is Clos des Goisses' late release, LV standing for Long Vieillissement. Like the other wines tasted here from this exceptional house, a sister to Bruno Paillard, this was disgorged in March 2020 and the dosage was 4.5 g/l. Note the relatively high alcohol. Deep coppery-gold colour. Sumptuous nose is almost essence of floral Pinot notes. The mousse is gentle, caressing the palate. Really fresh and youthful but with many extra layers of flavour including some of those mushroomy notes that Pinot Noir can exhibit after many years in bottle. One of those champagnes that's really rather more like a fine burgundy that happens to sparkle appetisingly. Very deep-flavoured. Although it has notes that are both youthful and mature, it seems beautifully integrated. Very long. It may, like the other Philipponnat wines, be labelled Extra Brut but it's not remotely austere. (JR)