2018 Bin 707

Glass-staining ruby. Intensely perfumed red and dark fruit liqueur, floral oil, coconut and cured tobacco qualities on the highly expressive nose. Offers palate-staining, still-primary cherry-vanilla, blackcurrant, coconut and fruitcake flavors that are lifted and sharpened by an undercurrent of smoky minerality. Gains weight with air while retaining energy and finishes sweet and extremely long, with reverberating cherry and floral notes and supple, slow-building tannins.

Super-sweet cassis fruit, plus expressive vanilla scent and high but ultra-fine tannins. There's lovely black-olive and engine-oil savouriness on the finish. Thick, dense, formidable. (RH)

In case readers weren't aware, Bin 707 is always aged in new American oak, like Grange. The 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Bin 707 features plenty of vanilla on the nose, backed by concentrated cassis fruit. It's full-bodied, velvety and richly tannic, clearly meant to have two decades (or more) of longevity. Marked by ripe fruit, a notable lack of herbaceousness, and lavish oak, it's out of step with current trends in Australian Cabernet Sauvignon, but it's no less delicious and all the more unique for that.