2018 Chablis Montee de Tonnerre
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Neal Martin
Antonio Galloni, Vinous
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The 2018 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre is clean and precise on the nose, perhaps more in the vein of a traditional Chablis than, say, the Butteaux. The palate is fresh and lively with crisp acidity, impressive tension and a twist of sour lemon toward the finish that keeps this Chablis alert and alive. Excellent.
The 2018 Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre is another success this year, delivering inviting aromas of citrus zest, crisp green apple, white flowers and oyster shell. Medium to full-bodied, with good depth and tension, it's one of the more tightly wound, structured wines in the cellar.
The 2018 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 1er Cru is the most elegant and precise of the premiers crus in this range. Silky, floral and refined, the 2018 possesses striking nuance and total class. Lemon confit, wild flowers, white pepper and saline notes add freshness. More than anything else, the Montée de Tonnerre impresses with its saline-infused tension and persistence. Even in this warm vintage, it retains terrific energy and cut. I loved it.