2018 Seleccion de Parcelas Los Primos Chardonnay

The 2018 Selección de Parcelas Los Primos Chardonnay is developing beautifully, opening with vibrant, radiant aromas complemented by a nutty undertone and a tropical backdrop. The palate is similarly lively and focused, exuding both racy energy and dense, punchy concentration. It concludes with a refined, lingering citrus-driven finish that gradually fills with a creamy yet classy decadence. This wine feels as though it still has significant runway ahead of it and should continue to develop for at least the next five years or more. After distinguished tenures at Errázuriz, revered enologist Francisco "Pancho" Baettig and Commercial Director Carlos de Carlos launched a project in the Traiguén province of Malleco Valley. It revolves around the Viñedos Los Suizos vineyard—named as a playful nod to the Swiss heritage of both owners—planted on volcanic soil in 2013 with 6.4 hectares of Chardonnay and nine hectares of Pinot Noir, both derived from French clonal material to avoid the inconsistencies of Chilean massal selections. Readers familiar with Pancho's work at Errázuriz will not be surprised that the entire lineup is superbly executed and has quickly become a reference point. The roster is divided between the Vino de Viñedo line, which provides an overview of the vineyard as a whole, and the Selección de Parcelas bottlings, which zoom in to showcase a selection of blocks. Chardonnay undergoes barrel fermentation, and bâtonnage is used in the early stages of élevage. The first sulfur additions typically occur in the summer following the harvest. Maturation usually lasts around 13 to 14 months in approximately 35% new 400-liter barrels. Pinot Noirs incorporate about 20% whole-cluster fermentations and are aged in roughly 50% new 300-liter barrels with a slightly longer élevage. Complementing the Burgundian varieties is a newer and equally impressive Cabernet Sauvignon program based in Maule. For this line, the duo collaborates with a group of growers in Coronel de Maule who own century-old País vineyards that have gradually been grafted to Cabernet Sauvignon since the 1980s. Since Baettig's interest and involvement, this progress has accelerated, resulting in more vines being converted and the outright purchase of one site, showcased in the stunning Los Padrinos bottling. The remaining vines contribute to the Los Compadres, which boasts a unique profile that blends a vibrant, umami-like richness reminiscent of Mediterranean wines with a coniferous quality I associate with California's Santa Cruz Mountains.

The 2018 Chardonnay Baettig Selección de Parcelas Los Primos is made with grapes from Malleco, Traiguén, and aged for 12 months in 400-liter French barrels, 25% of them new. Golden yellow in the glass, this is a precisely made wine: the nose delivers damson, acacia and ginger plus hazelnuts and a remote hint of gunpowder. Silky in the mouth, it stays compact and saline, with lingering flavor energized by the refreshing, packaged acidity.

A subtle note of oak on the nose with honeysuckle, cashew nut, toasted pine nuts and nectarine. Such freshness on the palate, linear and direct with a slight hint of wet wool and citrus. A very long finish with a saline note and piercing freshness. Fine. (AC)