2014 Pierre Gimonnet Special Club

Disgorged in May 2019 with four grams per liter dosage, Gimonnet's 2014 Brut Special Club Grands Terroirs de Chardonnay has turned out beautifully, wafting from the glass with aromas of citrus oil, crisp orchard fruit, white flowers and fresh yogurt that are still quite youthfully reserved. Medium to full-bodied, layered and concentrated, with racy acids and an elegant pinpoint mousse, it's seamless and complete. Still tightly wound after its recent disgorgement, it will reward patience.

The 2014 Brut Spécial Club is a blend of fruit taken mostly from Cramant, with Chouilly and Cuis in supporting roles. The breadth and power of Cramant comes through loud and clear. Readers will find a potent, at times austere, Champagne that needs a bit of time in the cellar to soften. The Special Club does not offer the immediacy of the Chouilly or Cramant Special Clubs, but it has plenty of its own allure. Dried pear, spice, crushed flowers and chamomile are some of the aromas and flavors that linger on the imposing finish. Dosage is 4 grams per liter. Disgorged: December 13, 2019.