2018 Vougeot Les Petits Vougeots

The 2018 Vougeot 1er Cru Les Petits Vougeot has turned out very well, opening in the glass with a lovely bouquet of cassis and plums, complemented by top notes of woodsmoke and violets. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, supple and fleshy, with a bright spine of acidity and a fragrant, precise finish. A Chambolle-Musigny in all but name, this is an elegant and exquisitely balanced cuvée. Charles Van Canneyt has surpassed himself with the 2018 vintage, producing a set of wines that rivals his 2016s and 2015s as his finest to date. Deep, textural and incipiently complex, these are powerful but elegant wines that display a sense of energy and dynamism that some of the year's reds lack. Followers of Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat will be familiar with Van Canneyt's approach in the cuverie and cellar: The predominantly destemmed fruit, retained intact, is fermented in cement tanks for a classical maceration of two to three weeks. Élevage is in barrels emphasizing François Frères, with Cavin in a supporting role, and lasts fully 18 months with the exception of the Bourgogne Rouge, bottled before harvest. These in essence uncomplicated methods, combined with an enviable palette of appellations planted with notably old vines, produce elegant, charming wines with impressive substance and aging potential. I've been buying them for my own cellar since my student days, so this is an address I warmly recommend.

Soft crimson. Juicy, sweet/sour ripe fruit and freshness. Chewy and full of fruit and avoiding over-ripeness. Deep and long. A wine to get your teeth into and should become more elegant with time. (JH)

2018, Vougeot Les Petits Vougeots 1er Cru, Domaine Alain Hudelot-Noëllat This is a strongly limestone soil, perhaps more typical of Chambolle. Lively bracing fresh red fruit, raspberry and redcurrant, very graceful with superb sweet and balanced fruit, elegance throughout. Amazing length.