2018 Clos de la Roche

The 2018 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru (Maison Louis Jadot) appears to be another of the few comparative under-performers in this year's négoce range, exhibiting a pretty bouquet of spicy berry fruit, licorice, dried flowers and tobacco that segues into a medium to full-bodied, firm palate that can't match the concentration of the prodigious Domaine Gagey Clos Saint-Denis that preceded it. I note that I expressed similar sentiments about the 2017 rendition.

The biggest of Gevrey Chambertin’s grands crus on an east-facing slope. Fermented in large vats for 3–4 weeks before maturation for 18–20 months in oak barrels. Deep in colour with a smoky, oaky nose. Deep cherry and plum fruit too. Chalky, chewy tannins and ripe cherries and plums on the palate. Green peppercorn and woody herbs add a layer of complexity. Quite surly at this early stage, will need time to open up. (TP)

The 2018 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru has an outgoing, generous bouquet of sensual red cherries, crushed strawberry and veins of blueberry that gain intensity with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with a dash of white pepper on the entry and slightly honeyed in texture toward the finish, betraying the warmth of the summer. It’s a close call but I just prefer the Clos Saint-Denis this year.