NV Laurent Perrier Grand Siecle #22

55% 2004, 30% 2002, 15% 1999. 55% Chardonnay from Avize, Cramant, Oger and Le-Mesnil-sur-Oger. 45% Pinot Noir from Ambonnay, Bouzy, Verzy, Tours-sur-Marne, Mailly. 13 years on lees. Disgorged May 2019. Dosage 7 g/l. From magnum. The first wine in this line-up of Grand Siècle that seems to show a little bit of age – or at least evolution. Long and savoury. For the goût anglais ! (JR)

The magnum release of Grand Siècle that is always aged longer than the equivalent release in bottle and has just sold out from Laurent-Perrier. A blend of 2004 with 2002 and 1999. Plaster/putty sort of aromas with a bit of green vegetation. This took a little time to express itself but it really blossomed in the glass to be quite bewitching and beautifully complex and dense. (JR)

A blend of the 2004, 2002 and 1999 vintages, the NV Grand Siècle N°22 (which I tasted from magnum) continues to perform very well, mingling notes of peach and ripe citrus fruit with nuances of brioche, beeswax, iodine and fresh sourdough. Full-bodied, pillowy and enveloping, it's deep and concentrated, with a creamy mousse, lively acids and a long, sapid finish. With the N°22, this series of Grand Siècle iterations takes another step up in maturity.