2017 Bourgogne Blanc

Harvest began 28 August from 4 ha of village-level vineyards. Organic since 1998, biodynamic since early 2000s. Half Puligny and half Meursault. A little bit of skin contact. Fermented in oak barrique and on fine lees for 11 months before resting in stainless steel. Square set in the mouth. Dusty flowers, broad acidity that circles the outskirts of the palate, but then dives down a central vertical line. Tasting this alongside Gut Hermannberg's 2017 Nahe Rieslings, it striking how the burgundy is so much more circular in fruit shape than the Rieslings. Very precise citrus but it becomes more floral, even rose petals, with time in glass.

Jean-Marc Roulot's lovely 2017 Bourgogne Blanc wafts from the glass with inviting aromas of citrus oil, white flowers, Anjou pear and a delicate touch of clear honey. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and lively, with fine concentration for its level, beautiful purity of fruit and a long, mouthwatering finish. Charming and beautifully balanced, it is a great introduction to the domaine's 2017 portfolio.

A discreet application of wood sets off the unusually elegant, cool, pure and airy aromas of various white orchard fruit and soft citrus wisps. There is both fine punch and volume to the fleshy and utterly delicious medium weight flavors that deliver seriously good depth and persistence for a wine of this level. One to buy in quantity.