2011 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Sixtine

Saturated ruby. Blackberry, musky herbs and sandalwood on the perfumed nose. Smooth and open-knit, offering sweet dark fruit flavors and a hint of candied violet. Finishes spicy and very long, with strong thrust and silky, building tannins. I underestimated this wine last year.

Made all from purchased grapes and a blend of 70% Grenache, 25% Syrah and the balance Mourvedre, the 2011 Cuvee du Vatican Chateauneuf du Pape is a medium-bodied, slightly austere effort that showed better from barrel than bottle. It offers notions of underbrush, licorice and spiced cherries to go with medium-bodied richness and grippy, rustic tannin on the finish. It should be consumed over the coming couple of years. Drink now-2017. Run by the Diffonty family, with the wines made by Jean-Marc, Chateau Sixtine covers over 50 acres in Chateauneuf du Pape. Previously named Cuvee du Vatican, they have now split that off into a negociant label, with the estate wines released as Chateau Sixtine. In a given vintage, they can release three red Chateauneuf du Papes, the negociant Cuvee du Vatican, the second wine of the estate, the Manus Dei, and their top cuvee, Chateau Sixtine. Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173

Bright purple. Exotically perfumed, displaying scents of dark berry compote, sassafras and incense. Supple and fruity on the palate, offering plump blackberry and blueberry flavors that take on a dry edge with air. Closes on a firm note, with modest length and gripping tannins.