1997 Clos Vougeot

Verging on over-ripe, the dark ruby-colored 1997 Clos Vougeot reveals mocha and grapey aromas. Cherries, Asian spices, figs, dates and plums are found in this boisterous, broad, and medium to full-bodied offering. While its somewhat tannic finish prevented it from meriting an even more exalted review, this is assuredly an outstanding wine. Projected maturity: 2002-2010. A Becky Wasserman Selection / Le Serbet; French Fax: 011-33-3-80-24-29-70, various American importers, also Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700.