2017 Vosne Romanee

The 2017 Vosne-Romanée Village bursts with aromas of rich cassis, plums and spices, framed by toasty new oak. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, ample and fleshy, with melting tannins and a supple, easygoing profile. This will drink well young.

From Vigneux and the bottom bit of Brûlées (now uprooted – they will replant mass selection – because they don’t reckon it’s up to premier cru standard). Plus young vines. No stems here because young vines not good for stems and the lower vines on Brûlées are Pinot Droit that has big bunches, doesn’t ripen so well and gets botrytis. After replanting he will use some stems. No SO2 until after malo. 30% new oak. 15 barrels. Racked to tank end October and will be bottled 17 December. Bright cherry red. Gentle aroma of zesty dark-red berries. Very cold sample but still fragrant and lithe and finely textured. ‘Good to have this vintage while we wait for 2015 and 2016’, says winemaker Michel Mallard. Pure and zesty on the palate, with depth if not great concentration. Finest of tannins, so accessible. (JH)