2016 Chambolle Musigny Trente Deux

The 2016 Chambolle-Musigny "Trente-Deux" (a reference to how many vintages Frédéric Mugnier has made) comes entirely from Les Plantes since his La Combe d'Orveaux was extirpated by frost. Six barrels in total produced, which includes two barrels of de-selected Musigny Grand Cru. It has a slightly bucolic bouquet, quite gamey in style, tertiary notes developing with aeration. The palate is well balanced with crunchy black fruit, quite rigid at the moment and probably needing some bottle age to just abrade the edges. It just lacks a bit of finesse, but it is certainly an intriguing one-off. Tasted at the Domaine.

From two different parcels of vines, one located in the premier cru Les Plantes, which was planted in 1968 and the second from the villages-level portion of La Combe d'Orveau; however in 2016, the La Combe d'Orveau vines were so frost damaged that there was essentially no production from them; as such only 6 barrels from Les Plantes were produced, to which was added two barrels of Musigny that had been vinified separately were later added. The '32' designation indicates the 32nd year of production. A wonderfully fresh if brooding nose combines notes of both red and dark cherry that are laced with hints of spice, violet and anise. The sleek and rich flavors possess fine mid-palate concentration yet there is a lovely refinement that is very Chambollesque in character to the mineral-inflected finale that is a bit awkward today. I underscore though that notwithstanding the refinement there is unusually good power and punch on the wonderfully long if distinctly austere finish. The balance isn't quite yet dialed in yet the impressive potential makes this worth the price of entry. Drink 2028+

Mugnier's vines in La Combe d’Orveau were so badly frosted this year that the 2016 Chambolle-Musigny Village Trente-Deux is derived exclusively from the lieu-dit Les Plantes, supplemented by two barrels of Musigny itself. The resulting wine is very special indeed, and the name that distinguishes it this year pays tribute to Mugnier's thirty-second harvest. Wafting from the glass with aromas of wild berries, rose petal, currant leaf and spices, it's medium to full-bodied, ample and layered, with unusual power and concentration, its deep core of vibrant fruit framed by fine but firm structuring tannins. Anyone lucky enough to find a bottle or two should plan on forgetting them for a decade or more.