2012 Moet & Chandon Grand Vintage

Lovely autolytic nose with strong dairy influence on the palate, dry and savoury on the finish, with lingering biscuit flavours. Plenty of personality here, and still fresh despite the obvious maturity displayed on the nose. (RH)

The 2012 Grand Vintage is a very pretty, high-toned Champagne. Surprisingly nervous for this radiant vintage, the 2012 is going to need a bit of time to be at its best. Some of that may be attributable to early release of the 2012, which was bottled after only five years on its lees rather than the more customary seven or so because the house did not bottle either a 2010 or 2011 Grand Vintage, and the necessities of the market are what they are. Lemon confit, white flowers, and mint gradually open up in the glass. This is an especially taut style for the Grand Vintage, which is usually creamier and more open-knit in the early going. The blend is 41% Chardonnay, 36% Meunier and 33% Pinot Noir. Dosage is 5 grams per liter. Disgorged: February, 2018.

Disgorged in February 2018 with five grams per liter dosage, Moët's 2012 Extra Brut Grand Vintage is showing well, unfurling in the glass with an expressive bouquet of ripe yellow orchard fruit, peaches, toasted nuts, warm bread and honeycomb. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, broad and fleshy, with a tangy but ripe core of fruit, nicely integrated acids and a pinpoint mousse, concluding with an attractively fruit-driven finish. The 2012 reflects both the concentration of the vintage and Moët's push for riper fruit, and it is already quite accessible.