2005 Etna Rosso Guardiola

The estate’s 2005 Guardiola reveals firm, yet silky tannins and gorgeous purity in its earthiness, tar, black cherries and toasted oak, with outstanding length and terrific overall balance even if there doesn’t seem to be quite enough fruit to stand up to the oak. This beautiful, classy wine comes across as delicate yet deeply-flavored at the same time. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2015. Proprietors Marco and Iano de Grazia are best known for the extensive portfolio their company represents but they are also proving to be very talented winemakers. Tenuta delle Terre Nere is located on Sicily’s Mount Etna, a recently re-discovered region that is set to challenge readers’ perceptions of Sicilian wines. These are believed to be the highest vineyards in Italy and Europe. The late-ripening indigenous Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Capuccio yield wines of notable aromatic complexity, with finessed tannins and a weightless quality that recalls Pinot Noir and Nebbiolo. Many of the best sites are still planted to old vines that proved to be resistant to phylloxera, which contributes to the wines’ complexity. Terre Nere’s top selections are aged in French oak, of which about 25% is new. It will be fascinating to follow this young estate, which appears to have a very bright future. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411