2009 Rioja Calvario

The 2009 Calvario has a decadent bouquet of macerated dark cherries, marmalade, exotic tropical fruit and a touch of white pepper that is all beautifully defined and not over-powering. The palate is full-bodied with fleshy sweet tannins and layers of toasty, dark plum and cherry fruit. The finish is very well-composed with espresso and dark chocolate lingering on the aftertaste. Drink 2017-2030. I am heading towards Miguel Angel de Gregorio’s winery in the village of Briones and conversing in English since my Spanish is not exactly “fluent.” We are discussing this morning’s forthcoming tasting and Miguel enquires how many wines I would like to taste? “Well. How many wines do you have?” I reply. “Sixteen,” he answers and given that, for once, I am not as pressed for time, I nonchalantly promise to taste them all. Miguel practically jumps out of his seat with excitement. He cannot believe it. It is only when I enter his tasting room and survey a never-ending line of bottles that I realize that he actually meant sixty. But hey, this is my first visit, and what could be a better introduction to one of Rioja’s most celebrated and occasionally recalcitrant winemakers by tasting every single wine the estate has ever released (including Finca Nueva, which is listed separately)? Unfortunately, space limitations in the print edition of The Wine Advocate would not allow for all sixty reviews to appear in print, but they are all available on www.eRobertParker.com. “Martires” is sourced from old Viura vines planted in 1970 and usually sees aging in new French oak and regular batonnage. Again, the wines appear to have the balance and substance to age with style, often developing almost Rhone-like honeyed and beeswax aromas. Most of these wines will repay ten years cellaring. As for the red wines, I will be honest and say that not every vintage hit the bull’s eye, but that is a trait I admire, a wine that follows and reflects the vicissitudes of the growing season rather than foolishly trying to smother them out. With respect to the Allende (Tinto), the 2001 formed the highlight, though I suspect it will be surpassed by the 2009 in the future. The optimal drinking age appears to be around a decade, although there is no doubt that the best vintages have a longer evolutionary cycle. The Calvario vineyard was planted in 1945: a two-hectare, southeast facing parcel on reddish, ferrous clay soil with gravel and stone. It is cultivated with Tempranillo, plus 8% Garnacha and 2% Graciano. The wine is raised entirely in French Allier barriques of which 30% are new each year. Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates from Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461-5767.