2009 Philipponnat Clos des Goisses

Philipponnat’s 2009 Clos des Goisses, disgorged in March 2022 with a dosage of 4.5 grams per liter, stands out as one of the most successful releases in recent memory. It opens with a deep bouquet of ripe pear, peach and early-blooming white flowers, mingling with nuances of red berry fruit. On the palate, it is full-bodied, profound and textural, supported by a racy spine of acidity and culminating in a long, sapid finish. While 2009 may have once seemed a warm, solar vintage, it no longer appears that extreme when considered alongside the increasingly warm years Champagne has experienced in more recent times. Reaching 12.8% alcohol, the wine exhibits a more elegant and harmonious profile compared to the drier, warmer 2015 and the riper, slightly more precocious 2012. The blend consists of 61% Pinot Noir and 39% Chardonnay, with approximately 37% of the wine vinified in oak.

The 2009 Clos des Goisses has been very tight in two recent tastings, which is probably a very good thing for its long-term prospects, but less so for readers seeking the immediacy that is common in so many 2009 Champagnes. White flowers, orchard fruit, mint white pepper and citrus peel add to the wine’s bright profile. Readers should plan on being extremely patient, as the 2009 Goisses does not show much, if any, early appeal, even if the density and textural persistence of the great years are both there. The 2009 is 61% Pinot Noir and 39% Chardonnay. Dosage is 4.5 grams per liter. Disgorged: March, 2018.