2013 Vilmart Grand Cellier d'Or

The 2013 Brut Grand Cellier d'Or is ample and beautifully expansive on the palate. Over the last year, the 2013 has acquired pretty tropical overtones that add exoticism to the lemon confit and floral notes. More than anything else, though, the 2013 is a Champagne of impeccable harmony and balance. Suave and polished to the core, the 2013 is a fabulous choice for drinking now and over the next handful of years, give or take. Disgorged: November, 2017.

The July 2017 disgorgement of Vilmart's 2013 Premier Cru Grand Cellier d'Or is showing brilliantly, bursting with scents of lime, citrus oil, freshly baked bread, crisp green apples and white flowers. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, broad and incisive, with an elegantly textural attack, a beautifully pure core of fruit, tangy acids and a nicely defined finish. While it's still a young wine, just beginning its drinking window, its quality is already apparent.

80% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Noir, all from 50-year-old vines in single lieu-dit Les Blanches Voies in Rilly-la-Montagne. Aged 10 months on lees in 228-litre barrels. No malo. Disgorged June 2017. Dosage 7 g/l. Very pale greenish straw. There seems to be some evolution on the nose of this blend, however young, and great vivaciousness and depth. Well done! So transparent and refreshing. No real undertow but a bracing cloud of delightful froth. Vivacious really is the word. Not to be paired with demanding food; more of an aperitif. Impressive build on the finish. (JR)