2017 Domaine du Bouscat les Portes de L'am

Severe spring frost impacted 75% of the vineyard in 2017, resulting in yields of just 12 hectoliters per hectare. The 2017 Les Portes de l'Am is a blend of 50% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc and 25% Malbec. Deep garnet-purple in color, it bursts with notions of baked blueberries, plum preserves, cherry compote and chocolate box with a touch of candied violets. Medium-bodied, the palate has a wonderfully velvety texture with mouth-coating black and blue fruits and tons of freshness, finishing with great purity.

The flagship is the 2017 Domaine Du Bouscat Les Portes de l'Am, which comes from a tiny, one-acre, south-facing section of the estate and is based on 50% Merlot and 25% each of Malbec and Cabernet Franc. Brought up in new barrels, the 2017 is a fresher, more elegant version of this cuvee yet has classic notes of blue fruits, violets, chocolate, and minerality. Beautifully textured, seamless, with ripe tannins and near-perfect balance, it’s already approachable, yet my money is on it evolving gracefully for 10-15 years. There were just over 100 cases produced.

The 2017 Les Portes de l’Am from du Bouscaut, matured in 100% new oak, has a super-charged bouquet with luscious blueberry and crème de cassis that is frankly, too much. The palate is sweet and charged with highly extracted black and red fruit that lacks finesse and refinement on the finish. Personally I far prefer the “Caduce” cuvée – this is just not what I particularly look for in a Bordeaux.