2017 Clos Fourtet

Still young, austere on the opening, with gorgeous freshness, violet flowers and edges of creamy grilled caramel. The acidity comes in waves, and the tight tannins suggest this has a long life but needs a few more years to really open up and let the red fruits out. This was a frost year, with Clos Fourtet suffering a 20% loss, and the areas that were untouched were pretty much pure limestone, which explains both the austerity, and the stunning mouthwatering finish. 32hl/h yield. 60% new oak. Stephane Derenoncourt and Jean-Claude Berrouet consultants, delivering one of the wines of the vintage in St Emilion.

Tasted blind. Deep ruby. Smoky and earthy nose, not entirely appetising. This follows on the palate, with rasping tannin that masks dark and ripe fruit. At the moment this wine is dominated by structure. Perhaps it needs time to show its potential. (TP)

The 2017 Clos Fourtet is vivid, rich and super-expressive. Beams of salinity give the 2017 its energy and shape. In the glass, the 2017 is wonderfully vivid and nuanced. Lavender, mint, blue fruits and blood orange all build into the beautifully layered, exquisite finish. In 2017, Clos Fourtet is all class. This is a terrific showing from the Cuvelier family. Tasted three times.