2017 Fonroque

The 2017 Fonroque shows a hell of a lot of new oak on the nose when I tasted it on more than one occasion, completely obscuring the fruit profile underneath. The palate is powerful and dense with saturated tannins, ostentatious towards the finish. What happened to the tenderness that I remarked upon out of barrel? The final bottle tasted on my last day had a joie-de-vivre that I admire so maybe patience is simply required.

This estate has been on a roll of late and continues to fashion rock-solid wines. The 2017 Chateau Fonroque checks in as 93% Merlot and 7% Cabernet Franc that was brought up in 30% new barrels and 70% in once-used French oak. Its deep ruby/purple hue is followed by a delicious, textured, medium-bodied Saint-Emilion that has classic chocolate-laced red and black fruits, spice, cedary herbs, and dried flower aromas and flavors. Textured, beautifully balanced, and just straight-up delicious, it has solid mid-palate depth as well as ripe, building tannins. Give bottles 2-3 years and enjoy over the following decade or so. Tasted twice.

The 2017 Fonroque has a perfumed bouquet with redcurrant and crushed strawberry fruit, a touch of vanilla and a faint touch of cedar and dark chocolate. It opens nicely with aeration but never gets carried away (as Alain Moueix’s wines tend not to!) The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, a fine bead of acidity, fresh and tender in the mouth with quite a long, silky finish. Delightful!