2017 Fleur Cardinale
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A rare chance to taste this wine, as there are only 140 bottles left at the estate after a savage frost that affected 97% of the vineyard, save a sliver of clay soils around the main château. Inevitably this means an unusual blend, with more Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon than in most vintages. The Cabernet dominance comes through in the floral, slightly austere character of the aromatics and tannins. It's a brilliant wine, although more savoury in character than a usual Fleur Cardinale, with pure cassis, damson, rosebud, rose petals, a touch of bracken. The overall structure has relaxed since I last tasted in En Primeur, and the soft smoke notes curl around the fruit, adding complexity. 100% integral vinification in 500l new oak vats, then moved into one year old barrels for ageing. This was the first vintage Ludovic Decoster made as techincal director, and he said he has found it hard to taste ever since, because it brings back the feelings of the morning after the frost and seeing the devasation that had been wrought. Only 1,000 magnums were bottled - each one a moving reminder than wine is a time capsule of a vintage.
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James Suckling
Jeb Dunnuck
Altre recensioni e punteggi
The 2017 Fleur Cardinale, which was 50% affected by frost, has a flamboyant bouquet that is fortunately well defined and shows a little more composure than past vintages that I often felt were over-egged. This shows more linearity and focus. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, supple tannin, judicious touches of white pepper and Asian spice that enliven the sustained finish whilst all the time retaining a sense of freshness and drinkability. Hopefully a prudent barrel maturation will ensure this turns into a fine Saint-Émilion.
The 2017 Fleur Cardinale is extraordinary. Sumptuous and explosive, rich, deep, head spinning endowed with magnificent intensity. A rush of red cherry, raspberry, leather and floral notes lift from the glass. Even with all of its richness, the 2017 possesses remarkable freshness and energy. Sadly, frost lowered production from 60-70,000 bottles to what will be around 1,000 magnums. Tasted two times.