2016 Pouilly Fuisse Tete de Cru Clos des Prouges

Aromas of lemon and soft citrus fruits lifted by spices. A distinctly riper, fuller-bodied wine whose broad shoulders no doubt are partly due to the marl-rich soil. Seriously rich wine but with nicely integrated acidity framing the soft citrus flavors. The largest-scaled and longest 2016 to this point, and also impeccably balanced. Winemaker Audrey Braccini plans to bottle her top five Pouilly-Fuissés between January and March of 2018.

The 2016 Pouilly-Fuissé Tête de Cru Clos des Prouges was cropped at a mere 29 hectoliters per hectare this year, and it's a little more fleshy and exotic in profile, bursting with aromas of spring flowers, orange zest, peaches and fresh pastry. On the palate, it's full-bodied, ample and rich, with succulent balancing acids and a long, fragrant finish. It's a bit more precocious than usual and will drink well out of the gates.

Cask sample. Definite leesy aroma – mealy fresh pears – more than fruit but the fresh citrus fruit shines through on the palate. Bright, fresh and persistent. Better balance at this early stage than on the Chablis wines, which need more time. (JH)