2015 Leeu Estates Passant Stellenbosch Chardonnay
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The Mullineux spent time with old-vine specialist Rosa Kruger looking at old vineyards outside of their home base in the Swartland and they did not want to use them for the Mullineux brand. In 2015 they met a new business partner and decided to start new brand to tell a different story. Whereas Mullineux focuses on soils, this brand is more about climate and the history of SA winemaking – back to the 1950s and 1960s when wines aged very well. Single vineyard. Maritime climate – one of the closest sea-facing vineyards in Stellenbosch at 400 m on sandstone. Minimal diurnal flux so no stress and higher acidity than in Swartland. 30% new oak barriques. Gently mineral reductive stoney note. Crisp apple and citrus. Smoky and cool and stunningly fresh and definitely more citrus than on the Swartland Chenins – a real stony character, very dry and chalky finesse. Extremely tight and bone dry and so fresh. (JH)
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Jancis Robinson MW
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
Altre recensioni e punteggi
Not given away! Muted nose. Stony and sappy – very appetising. Certainly well made and well judged. This is superior Chardonnay and is arguably more welcoming than many a white burgundy at this price. But I would have thought it will be a much easier sell in South Africa than abroad. (JR)
The 2015 Leeu Passant Stellenbosch Chardonnay had a similar analysis to the Elandskloof Chardonnay, but this had a quicker alcoholic fermentation and maintained a higher level of acidity, because of the difference in terroir. It is matured for 12 months in about 30% new oak. Now, this is a dead ringer for Burgundy with hints of almond and walnut infusing the citrus fruit, the reductive soil bringing to mind growers that employ a reductive style of winemaking. The palate is well balanced with crisp acidity, harmonious in the mouth with a pleasant sour lemon note that marries beautifully with the white peach and nectarine notes on the finish. Delicious, in a single prosaic word.