2016 Wiltinger Braune Kupp Auslese Le Gallais

This was picked in November, after the 10-day pause called at the estate. By then, along with additional phenolic evolution and air-dried concentration, the Braune Kupp bunches, unlike those in the Scharzhofberg, had acquired a small but significant measure of noble rot – botrytis of a clean, relatively dry sort that did not in any way preclude precision and clarity in the resultant wine. “It’s unusual to let the grapes hang this long in the Kupp,” explained Veronika Lintner, “because this site is usually where botrytis begins, so it’s where we start picking.” High-toned evocations of purple plum and quince on the nose anticipate a glycerol-slicked yet brightly juicy palate suggestive of quince preserves mingled with tart-edged, singed purple plum and smoky black tea. A tactile sharpness akin to pineapple core ratchets up the wince-inducing sense of invigoration, yet there is a simultaneous sense of textural silkiness. The paradox of richness and brightness continues in a startlingly concentrated, penetrating and almost tear-jerkingly gripping yet at the same time enveloping and richly mouth-coating finish.