2004 Pascal Doquet Vertus Coeur de Terroir

Bright yellow. Bright and precise on the mineral-driven nose and in the mouth, displaying lively citrus pith, pear and melon character. Dry and sharply focused, delivering a suave blend of power and verve and slow-building floral character. Finishes taut and nervy, with a lingering citrus note. This is still quite young and really deserving of patience.

The 2004 Premier Cru Vertus Coeur de Terroir races across the palate with an array of mineral and savory-inflected nuances. Crushed rocks, salt, green pears, sage and mint are all super-expressive. The 2004 is built on energy and pulsating minerality, both Doquet signatures. Hints of oak sweetness add complexity, but the 2004 remains vibrant and polished to the core. Disgorged September 23, 2013. Dosage is 5 grams per liter.

More piercingly racy than the 2005 Mont Aimée. Filigree texture and with lots of chew still. Quite frothy. Still youthful and not fully resolved but it should be great eventually. (JR)