2015 Chateauneuf du Pape

Vaudieu is on a roll. Even the 2015 Chateauneuf du Pape is a star, boasting forward aromas of garrigue and ripe raspberries. Full-bodied, richly textured and tannic, this wine will likely close down shortly. But the long, fruit and spice-driven finish gives me confidence it will then reemerge in five-plus years.

Limpid ruby-red. A highly perfumed bouquet evokes fresh red and dark berries, peppery spices and candied flowers, and a smoky mineral nuance adds vivacity. Sappy, sweet and open-knit, offering juicy raspberry and floral pastille flavors joined by hints of licorice and bitter chocolate that build slowly on the back half. Smooth and seamless in texture, showing very good finishing energy, gentle tannins and spicy persistence. This should turn out to be an outstanding "basic" Châteauneuf.

Vaudieu. pH 3.65, TA 3.2 g/l. 81% Grenache, 19% Syrah. Destemmed. Vinified in stainless steel. Aged for 12 months: 15% demi-muid, 19% very old barrique, 66% cement tanks. Tasted blind. Pale greyish crimson. Rather industrial nose and pinched palate – no great distinction. Slightly jammy. Astringent finish. (JR)