2008 Anteros Mataro

The purple-colored 2008 Anteros is 100% Mataro from the Ebenezer vineyard of noted grape grower Adrian Hoffman. It was aged in seasoned American oak for 9 months. It offers up a unique panoply of prunes, dates, fruitcake, underbrush, and other exotic scents. Satin-textured, ripe, balanced, and lengthy, this is a splendid effort for drinking over the next 10 years. It is bound to be controversial; European-trained palates should look elsewhere. Michael Twelftree’s Two Hands negociant label is solid but not quite up to the standards established by the past several years because of the challenging 2007 and 2008 vintages in South Australia. The wines are discussed in the order in which they were presented. The Garden Series is designed to highlight Shiraz from a diversity of appellations (or GIs as they are known in Australia). Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; www.twohandswines.com

Opaque purple. Youthfully brooding, musky nose displays blackcurrant, smoky minerals, licorice and mocha. Deeply concentrated, sweet and lush, offering powerful dark berry and bitter cherry flavors and notes of black tea and tobacco. Sweeter boysenberry and blueberry notes gain strength with air and carry through a very long, juicy and focused finish. This was scheduled to be bottled this fall.